Gaps Happen

Gaps happen, and they send us a little nutty right?  Why do those gaps in outlines happen and how to go about fixing them is the real question.  We get so many emails saying why do I have a small gap in my design between the stitching and the outline. So this blog is to run through why and help you stop them happening.

You want to be able to turn this 

 Into this:

Successful embroidery is a real science.  So many factors come into play.  How you hoop the design, how you stabilize the fabric and design.  The thread, the machine, the needle, the surrounding environment (bumps happen), I swear even the weather in China comes into play (just jokes).

With gaps, the main reasons are how you stabilize the design/fabric and how you hoop the fabric.  One assurance we can give you though is that the issue is not in the design.  We test stitch every single design prior to release (and I promise you not ALL digitizers test their designs) and ensure the design quality and a design you can rely on.  We use mostly stitchouts as our images on our website so you can be assured of how a design stitches out before you purchase.  

The method of stabilization can be different for each design and each fabric you use.  Below is a guide on what stabilizer to choose for your fabric:

Type of Stabilizer	Ideal for:	Comments
Tear-Away	Light to medium weight woven fabrics	Typically used on cottons, canvas, satin and corduroy. Usually considered a light weight, soft stabilizer, though does come in may thicknesses. If using a large filled design (ie lots of stitching) it is recommended to use two layers of tear-away to improve stabilization. I personally use two layers most of the time. On completion of design slowly and firmly tear away fabric as opposed to pulling too quickly. Redwork and some appliqués should only require one layer of stabilizer.
Cutaway	Stretchy, unstable fabrics	Typically used for knits, fleece, stretch denim, velvet, toweling, corduroy. Consider a medium weight stabilizer. If using a larger filled design, it might be necessary to use two layers of cutaway. Need to cut away excess stabilizer upon completion of stitching.
Iron-On	Most fabrics – especially lightweight fabrics	A paper based stabilizer which has a waxlike film that you iron onto the back of the fabric. Can be used in combination with a layer of tear-away if you require further stabilization. Helps ensure proper hooping. Excess can be torn away or peeled off upon completion of stitching. Try to avoid iron-ons with too much glue which will gunk up a needle and cause stitching problems.
Water-Soluable	Free Standing Lace Designs and topping on toweling, corduroy, velvet and knits	Can be used on top of or underneath fabrics. Great to use on top of toweling to ensure fabric nap does not poke through embroidery designs. Good for intricate designs where it is impractical to tear away or cut away a stabilizer. Excess washes away in water.
Sticky-Back	Fabric or quilts that can not been hooped	Stick on one side (and covered by protective sheeting). Typically used where fabric can not be hooped including quilts, shirt collars, cuffs, socks. Place stabilizer in hoop with sticky side up and place fabric on top of hoop/hooped stabilizer.
Heat Removable	Unwashable fabrics/projects and delicate fabrics	Removed with the application of heat. Use only on fabrics that will not burn.
Spray Adhesives	Appliqués	Not a true stabilizer and can be used with tear-away. Attaches fabrics and can be used on back of stabilizers.

With filled stitch designs that are larger, you may even find you require two layers of stabilizer to properly stabilize the design.  When we test our designs, we don't have time to get it wrong due to the volume of designs we create and test, so on larger filled stitch designs, we use two layers of cutaway hooped with the fabric.  It never fails us. Please note that Water Soluble on its own is typically not recommended as a stabilizer for normal embroidery as its purpose is to prevent embroidery sinking into the nap of fabrics. We often use tearaway or one layer of stablizer with appliques (as we don't have outlines to worry about) and tearaway or water soluble with in the hoop projects.

Some other things that help are to baste the fabric or stabilizer prior to embroidery and or using spray adhesive to adhere the stabilizer to the back of the fabric (this prevents less movement in the fabric during stitching.

Additionally, consider using a hoop close to the embroidery size, this allows less slack in the fabric, meaning it will move less during embroidery.  The more the fabric id pushed and pulled or moves, the higher the risk of gaps.  

Generally speaking cut-away provides the most stabilization and we recommend using it where possible on filled stitch designs. 

Also remember, stabilization keeps the embroidery firm upon completing the project and increases the longevity of your embroidery.  It serves multiple purposes, stopping the fabric moving during embroidery (thereby reducing gaps and puckering) and keeps the embroidery looking nice and it's ongoing longevity.  If you have ever seen a design without stabilizer after completion and after it has been washed, you will often see the embroidery loses it shape and get all wavy (let alone any gaps, puckering and other quality issues that occurred during the embroidery).  

There's a lot to learn with stabilization and lot of it comes with trial and error but it is one of the most important things to focus on when you start embroidery as it does provide the foundation of successful embroidery!